Armguards (aka Bracers)

 
 
My first armguard. This one is made of commercially tanned elk hide and sewn with artificial sinew.. Inside of the center panel is a piece of goat rawhide. The buttons are antler.
  		This one was done in a hurry and it shows. I figured that I'd make him a better one, but haven't yet. It is made of heavy cowhide, so no insert was required between the body and the center panel. The buttons are a plastic imitation of braided leather buttons from an old worn out sweater. One broke and was replaced soon after completion. It has done four seasons now and my son is still happy with it.
 

 
 
One day I said something about MY armguard (number one, just above) and my wife said "It's mine, you made it for me!" It well could have been, so I started another. I decided to make it longer to cover more arm. This time I used some German deerskin sold as an less expensive substitute for braintan. It is soft and comfortable but sucks dirt out of the air like Charles Schultz's Pigpen. I haven't tried beading on it. The stiffener inside is deer rawhide into which I had to cut slots because it was too stiff. Between the softness of the leather and extra length, a four button arrangement would have been better. Work in progress: The rest of us shoot recurves, but my older son likes his training wheels and says the string never hits his arm. Rondy style wasn't an issue and he only needed one when the safety rules required, so I started this one in upholstery weight cow leather. Sewing is a flat nylon braid, black to match the leather. The wrist to elbow length called for four buttons. I haven't chosen the actual buttons yet.

Lessons

  1. Use surface antler buttons, not section cut. They are both stronger and prettier.
  2. No plastic!
  3. Use edgewrap saddle stitch throughout. these must lie flat and smooth.
  4. Use the rest of the German deerskin, but do't buy any more.

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